Travel in Spain, Day 7, Fonseca Palace

It was pouring with rain as we opened the curtains on Day 7 of Travel in Spain, not gentle English rain, but bucketloads of water which ran in rivers down the streets. Even a dash across the square resulted in wet shoes and trouser bottoms! Continue reading

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         Travel in Spain, Day 6, Santiago do Compostelo                           The Monastery and Church of San Martin Pinario

íI had of course heard of the Cathedral in Santiago, but didn’t know about this astonishing building. The original Benedictine Monastery of San Martín Pinario was begun in 6C and associated with the pines (pignario) in which the buildings stood. Today’s buildings mainly date from 16C, and the Monastery was closed in 19C during the desamortizacion. The buildings dominates the Square of Inmaculada, facing the North Door of the Cathedral, and now include student accommodation (and a hostel during the holidays), a seminary, and offices. By the end of 15C this was the largest and most powerful monastery in Galicia and the second largest in Spain after the Escorial. Continue reading

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         Travel in Spain, Day 6, Santiago de Compostelo                                            Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos

Travel in Spain, Day 6, and we set off from Cambados on a cool and overcast day, and as we drove north the sky got darker and darker, and then the rain started. I am a competent map-reader, but the Spanish road markings and signposts soon defeated me and I felt distinctly frazzled by the time we finally arrived in Obradoira Square, outside the Hostal de los Reyes Catolicos. Continue reading

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Travel in Spain, Cambados at night

The last night in Cambados was fine and we enjoyed the most delicious mussels and chiperones ever at O Arco, surrounding by passionate football supporters. Wonderful!

And then a last look at Fefinañs Square.

Fefinans Square

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Travel in Spain, All Saints Day in Cambados

The last day in Cambados was also All Saints Day. We had noticed a flower stall in the town the night before and wondered if it might be connected to the Festival of All Saints, but I was quite unprepared for the sights at the ruined Romanesque Church of Santa Mariña Dozonow a cemetery.

Santa Marina

Santa Marina

All Saints Day

All Saints Day

All Saints Day

I was caught unawares. Memories of my mother overwhelmed me; surrounded by an outpouring of love and attention I felt desperately alone. People in the shadows of my life came to me. We lingered, and then, subdued, returned to the town.

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Travel in Spain, Boats in Cambados Harbour

Boats in Cambados harbour

Boats in Cambados harbour

Boats in Cambados harbour

Boats in Cambados harbour

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Travel in Spain, Cambados and its Fishing Village

The last day in Cambados began slowly with another lovely breakfast, consisting mainly of fruit, and then we set off to explore San Tomé and Cambados itself. To my delight there was a market in full swing, just down the road from the Parador! Continue reading

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Travel in Spain, Fefinans Square, Cambados

Cambados has been inhabited for a long time. The Celts settled in the area now called Galicia in the first millennium BC, and their artifacts have been found in the hills surrounding Cambados. Apparently the Phoenicians also settled in around the Umia River south of the town. (They were spreading through the Mediterranean in c.1500BC-300BC.)  Today there are three main ‘centres’: the historic centre around Fefiñáns Square, the old fishing village of San Tomé, and the newer town inbetween the two. There is an excellent article on the town here, with histories and photographs. These are my impressions during a brief stay. Continue reading

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Travel in Spain, Day 4, Castro de Barona

We left Ribeira to drive along the Ria de Noia. The weather was deteriorating and visibility was restricted – not quite what I had in mind – and then we saw a signpost for Castro de Baroña and stopped to look. What an amazing sight! Continue reading

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Travel in Spain, Day 4, Corrubeda

The Parador at Cambados, the old Pazo of Bazan, was our refuge for three nights – a comfortable and beautiful old mansion facing the sea.

Parador at Cambados

Parador at Cambados

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